Tools and calculators

List your devices and how long you run them: we work out the watt-hours to store, using a realistic efficiency rather than a theoretical figure. We then keep only the stations that handle both the energy you need and the peak power at start-up.

Enter the capacity in watt-hours or milliamp-hours: we convert it and place your battery against the two thresholds that matter, 100 and 160 Wh. You then know whether it flies in the cabin with no paperwork, with airline approval, or not at all.

A battery at 900 euros can work out cheaper than one at 500: it all depends on how many cycles it takes before losing capacity. We reduce the purchase price to the real cost per kilowatt-hour stored across its whole life, the only figure that compares one model to another.

Tell us what you recharge and how many times: phone, tablet, laptop. We work out the capacity actually available, conversion losses included, because a 20,000 mAh power bank never gives back that much, then we suggest the models that are enough.

Not every panel fits every station: the open-circuit voltage decides, and exceeding it can damage the controller. Pick your station and we list only the panels in our catalogue compatible with its solar input, ranked from the best suited downwards.

Cooling is by far the biggest electrical load in a converted vehicle. Volume, compressor type, outside temperature: we estimate consumption over 24 hours and what it draws from your battery, drawing on a catalogue of more than a hundred real models.

Battery, panels, fridge, devices, region and month of departure: we work out how many days you last without plugging in, under cloud as well as full sun. The stay mode even traces the charge day by day, so you can see when you drop below the line.

Pick a station, an output and an appliance: we work out the real runtime from the energy actually returned, measured on 32 stations in our catalogue rather than estimated. You'll know exactly how long it will last, not the optimistic promise on the spec sheet.

Enter the current, the cable length and the voltage of your setup: we calculate the real voltage drop and the minimum cross-section to use, in copper or aluminium. An instant verdict tells you whether your current cable is enough or needs upgrading.

Enter your panel's power, its voltage and your battery's: we compare the current actually recovered by an MPPT controller against a standard PWM one, often 20 to 30% less. You'll see straight away whether the difference justifies the extra cost of MPPT.

Enter the price of your solar panel and station kit, your electricity rate and your usage: we work out the annual savings and how many years it takes to pay back the investment. The chart also shows the net gain accumulated over ten years.